Inter Rail 1987 Day 3 and Day 4

Monday 1st June 1987

Was going to wash and change underwear in the station toilets, but discovered that it was the equivalent of 50p to enter the loo through the turnstile system, so abandoned that plan in favour of a wash and a clean of teeth on the train. With usual European rail efficiency, the train left for Budapest on time. Most of the Austrian side of the journey was through flat agricultural land full of rape.

The border crossing into Hungary was as daft as ever. The little men outside the carriage didn't have machine guns but it took about 15 people to get us across the border. Seats were looked under and they checked no-one was hanging under the train but they didn't look in our rucksacks.

Got into Budapest Keleti Pu on time. We went straight to the Ibutz office and got ourselves accommodation. I also got some money changed. Jon had changed his Austrian Schillings at the border.

We decided to get out to our accommodation via the Metro. We ended up coming out in the middle of a park next to a circus and a zoo which was a route march away from the place. When we finally got to our accommodation, our place was great. We has a little flat all to ourselves. It had 2 twin beds pushed together plus a 3rd bed, a fridge and cooker, plus a bathroom. The sink had hot water, but not the shower.

We got the number 20 bus to Keleti Pu station. We noticed the Metro had gone up to 2 Forints (i.e. 3p) but was no longer pay as you enter. We decided to only chunker 1 lot of tickets on the bus. We checked the time of trains to the Danube Bend

Bought some food and alcohol and got a bus over to the Buda side of the city. Sat and had a few beers in a bar, then caught the funicular up to the top of the Fisherman's Bastion (10F each). Wandered around the Old Palace and then made our way back to the restaurant used in previous years. We didn't do "Transylvanian Wooden Plate" and it had got a bit touristy but we got a bowl of Hungarian Goulash plus Fillet of Pork, salad and chips plus a beer for £4.25 each.

We then went for a walk along the Fishermans' Bastion with all the best sights lit up. Absolutely beautiful. Bussed it down the hill. Metro'd it to Keleti Pu and then express bus'd it back to our accommodation. Once there we settled down with a bottle of local plonk (28F a litre) followed by a relatively good nights sleep. Ventolin came in handy as the plonk was very plonk.


Tuesday 2nd June 1987

Had time for a lie in because our train didn't leave Nyugati Pu until 11.10am. The train we got was described as a "smelly"; the bible described it as slow, noisy but fun. The bible was absolutely spot on. At one point we thought we saw a snail overtaking us.

Our journey was not without incident. At one point, the train guard came into our compartment and made some announcement in Hungarian. As a result of this announcement, all the locals started packing their bags and making their way to the train exit doors. We stayed put in a sort of confused manor. The guard came back in a second time and talked to us again, this time with accompanying hand gestures. We still stayed put although he seemed friendly enough.

Eventually, the train stopped at some obscure station and everyone got off the train including the guard and the driver. At this point we decided that it was probably a good idea to join them. We decided to follow the guard and driver, so got on the same bus they did.

We drove for 70km over about 2 hours, arrived at the next station where everyone, including the guard and driver got on the train waiting for us, and we were off again to Esztergom, on the Danube Bend. Must learn what "working on the line, so bus transfer is in place" is in Hungarian.

Got ourselves a room in Esztergom halfway up the hill side. Esztergom is on a steep hill rising up from the Danube River. Mrs.B, our landlady, spoke a tad of English and insisted we wear flip flops she provided in the house. We shared the place with a couple of Germans.

We sat on the bench outside our accommodation and had lunch , finished off with local wine. Following this we wandered up to the Esztergom Basilica. This is the largest church in Hungary.

Apparently, it is the most precious remaining example of Renaissance art in Hungary. All we knew was that the organ was playing and playing badly. The only thing to wonder over was the dome which was 100 ft up. The whole place was very light and airy. We couldn't get up into the dome but having left the basilica, decided to wave across the river at Czechoslovakia instead.

Did some research and found out from where the river boat to Budapest left and then got ourselves an evening meal. Had a 7in diameter Al Capone pizza + 2 glasses of Egri Bikaver for £1.10!! Sauntered back to our room having done some food shopping. Watched Czech, Russian and Hungarian TV. The Russian TV was particularly confusing and the Hungarian TV were showing Shogun!

Had some Egri Bikaver, but that didn't really help the severe indigestion. Sleep was very disturbed. Woke up at least 5 times before the alarm went off.





Me Budapest


Jon Budapest


Jon Esztergom